The Impatient Chef visited California this past July to explore the past and present of fine dining in such places as Truckee, South Tahoe, and, of course, Donner Pass. The latter being not only a joke in poor taste, but not really a place where one can grab a (ew) bite. The locale that is on today's plate is a diner in Truckee called "Jax on the Tracks". This is not a review of the restaurant, but an attempt to recreate one of their dishes. The Impatient Chef did not order this dish, alas, but was graciously given a taste, and later had to retrieve his socks from across the diner. The dish in question was a lobster and shrimp with (count 'em) 5 cheeses.
Can one recreate a dish with only one taste? Good question. In this case, the answer is "no." Can one create a delicious dish on the same concept. That would be a "yes." So, here goes.
Ingredients:
- 1/2 pound shrimp (with shells)
- 1 small lobster tail (approx. 4 oz in shell)
- Water to cover shrimp and lobster shells
- 1 pint Heavy Cream
- 3 oz Mozzarella
- 5 oz Mild or Medium Cheddar
- 5 oz PepperJack
- 5 oz Münster
- 2 oz Parmesan
- 2 cups Dry Elbow Mac
- 5 tbsp Butter (2 for topping for broil)
- 6 tbsp Flour
- 1 tbsp Kosher Salt
- 1/2 tsp White Pepper
- 1/2 tsp mustard powder
- 1/2 tsp Tony Chachere's Creole Seasoning
- Freshly ground pepper to taste
- Sprinkle paprika
Directions:
- It is vital to time this right so that the macaronis go into the sauce hot.
- Shell and devein shrimp. Cut shell off of the lobster. Set the meat aside.
- In a small sauce pan, cover shrimp and lobster shells with water, and add 1/2 tsp salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain the stock into a small container, and then put it back into the pan, and over medium heat, bring to a boil.
- Cut the shrimp and lobster meat into 1/2 inch pieces. Add to shrimp stock when it comes to a boil. Cook until just barely done, usually about a minute. Remove the seafood from the stock, and reduce stock to 1/2 cup, stirring occasionally, and skimming off any foam that forms on the surface.
- When the stock is done reducing, remove from heat, and set it aside.
- Add water to a large pot for the macaronis. Add 1/2 tsp kosher salt. Bring to a boil and add the macaronis.
- Measure out and shred the cheeses. Mix together in a medium bowl.
- In a medium sauce pan, add 4 tbsp butter. Melt over medium low heat, and stir in flour to make a roux. Cook roux for 5 minutes stirring frequently. Do not let it brown.
- Once the roux is cooked, slowly add the reduced stock while stirring to incorporate. The slowly add the heavy cream, still stirring. When you have added half of the cream, and the sauce is smooth, pour the rest in, and stir until smooth. Add 1/2 tsp salt, the white pepper, mustard powder, and the Creole Seasoning. Heat it up, stirring constantly, until thickened, and just about boiling.
- Add the seafood to the bottom of the colander into which you will drain the macaronis.
- About this time, the macaronis should be done. You want them to be all the way done for this. Drain. The hot water should heat up the seafood enough that it will not cool down the sauce.
- Add the macaronis and seafood back to the large pot, and add the sauce. Stir to incorporate. Check the temperature. It should still be hot.
- Reserve 5 oz of the cheese mixture for the next step. Add the cheese in handfuls, stirring to incorporate after each.
- Put mac and cheese into a small casserole dish, or bread pan, and cover with reserved cheese. Add remaining 2 tbsp of butter by adding small amounts evenly around the pan. Put under a broiler until the cheese is just melted.
Eat. Let your eyes roll back into your head. You deserve it.
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