The Quaygang Cookbook Fish and Chips Review: Barrel Mountain Brewing

As readers of this intermittant blog know, I have been tasting fish and chips around the Pacific Northwest for a few years as part of a project to find the best of the best. Way back in the late 1990's is I had some salmon fish and chips at a place called the Malahat Mountain Inn near Victoria, British Columbia, that knocked my socks off. That place is sadly no longer with us, but I have been trying to find some that rise to that standard.

A few notable entries in the best of list: 

• Trillium Cafe in Hood River: They used to have dreamy albacore tuna fish and chips. Their new version is still very good, but the albacore was slightly better. I still recommend them. 

• The Salt Hotel and Pub in Ilwaco, Washington: Tender, flaky, and crispy with killer fries. 

• Gracie's Sea Hag in Depoe Bay, Oregon: A little more pedestrian, but still yummy. 

• My favorite used to be the Rose and Thistle in Portland, but new ownership and a different recipe dethroned them as the kings of the craft.  I used to call my rating system "The Rose and Thistle Scale".  They now rate a 4. 
  

Enter Barrel Mountain Brewing in Battle Ground, Washington, with its woodsmoke tinged dining room, and friendly staff. Barrel Mountain Brewing takes fish and chips to a higher level than I've tasted since Malahat Mountain. They use steelhead trout, which is like salmon, but milder. The batter was crispy, not doughy, and with no oil flavor. It stayed crispy through the meal, which is very important. The fish was perfectly cooked, tender and flaky. While the steelhead is slightly less flavorful than salmon, they were not afraid to let is taste like fish. There is nothing worse than fish and chips that have no fish flavor. 

The tartar sauce was savory and herbal, not cloying and sweet. I did not have to doctor it with lemon, salt and pepper like at some places. I've had excellent fish ruined by a sugary tartar sauce.

The coleslaw was not too sweet. It had an unusual flavor, but not in a bad way. I liked it, but it was the weak part of the meal.

The fries were thin and crispy with lots of crunchy bits to savor. They pass the salt test (needing only salt as a flavoring, even as they cool down). Many fries get soggy, need ketchup to mask diminishing flavor.  These fries did not get soggy.  They are using some kind of magic, I'm sure.  

I added nothing that did not come on the plate, not even salt. That's a first.   

The foundations of my fish and chips edifice have been shaken. A new order has emerged. These were the best I've had. Give them a try. Make a pilgrimage if you have to.  

On a different note: I really want to be The Impatient Chef again.  I had a lot of fun with the Schtick I used on this blog as The Impatient Chef, and I noticed that I am not posting as much without the name.  It is used by someone else, but I may have to find out if it has been trademarked.  I few other names I am thinking about:  Sporknado.  Vittle Quest.  Hot Sauce and Cold Feet.  Other ideas are welcome.